Spirea - types of kernels, landing, care, reproduction, illness and pests: description, growing tips, photo

In this article, we will consider the types of spirea. We will also tell you how to care, propagate and fight the pests of the plant.

Large and attractive spirea bushes that do not leave anyone indifferent due to their flowering, decorate almost every square, park or home garden. Not only with their delicate and romantic beauty, they lure gardeners, but still unpretentiousness in leaving and landing, as well as comparative endurance.

True, there are some nuances that should be taken into account when growing to achieve the maximum effect of spirea decorative abilities. And this material will help prepare the appropriate conditions for planting and growth of spirea, which can steadfastly survive against frosts and various ailments, delighting the eyes with plentiful and bright flowers.

External characteristics and classification of spirea types

These shrubs belong to the family is pinke and there are about 80-100 species. They spread mainly in the semi -desert, forest and forest -steppe zones of the northern hemisphere, and also cover the Subalpian belt. The spread area and gave the plant the ability to withstand severe frosts.

Important: the spire is often confused with the trunk. These are different plants that belong to one family. But the spirea is a decorative bush, but the trunk is a long -term grass that also lives in the northern hemisphere, but chooses mainly a moderate zone.

• The spirea comes from the ancient Greek word, which translates as “spiral” or “bend”. What is fully justified by her branches. Often they can be creeping or curved down, but there are views with erect branches.
• The height of the bush starts at 15 cm and ends even 2.5 m, depending on the variety. But they classify them into two groups:
  • Blooming in the spring Spiree. Their peak of active flowering falls at the end of May and lasts until the middle of June. These species bloom for a short while, but they assume all the bushes with simultaneous and thick flowers.
  • The most popular species are medium, sharply surveillance and three -lobed spirea, as well as Vangutta and Tunberg.
  • Summer The beauties are already covering a greater period of time - from July to August. These varieties also bloom together on all branches. But some varieties that are relatively small in height and prolonged flowering cover almost the entire period, gradual opening.
  • The most famous varieties - Japanese, dwarf, white and willow spirea, as well as thick -flowered and douglas.

• The most important distinguishing and distinctive characteristic of spirea is flowers. They come from white, which is more characteristic of spring -flowering bushes, to a light or saturated shade of pink or raspberry color among summer representatives. But late -wound plants can even have a purple color.
  • The flowers of all species are decorated with five petals that have a rounded shape. They are small, even small and densely decorate the branches to the ground.

• The inflorescences themselves are also completely dependent on the species: in spring flowers, these are sitting umbrellas or brushes, but summer early representatives are decorated with bright shields. Late varieties stand out at the ends of long shoots.
• The leaves are also small in size and have a foundry and lithic shape, but sometimes round-leaved varieties can also occur.

Spirea landing: when and how to carry out?

On average, all varieties and types of spirea are equally unpretentious in care and require approximately the same conditions for growth. But there are small "pitfalls". The fact is that summer and spring varieties should be planted in different seasonal time.

When to plant a spirea:

• Planting in the spring applies to those plants that will bloom in the summer. A prerequisite - time must be selected before the kidneys begin to bloom. By the way, pay special attention to the shoots and the root system - the branches should bend smoothly and easily, and the root itself should not be overdried.
  • But if this happened, then you need to soak it in the water for a while and trim all the branches, as well as dry roots.

Important: spring -fluent bushes may not take root in the spring, so you should not risk planting even such an unpretentious plant.

• They are planted in the fall, but summer spirea can also be planted during this period. The most favorable month is September. But you need to focus on your territorial area and temperature. The deadlines of the spirea planting in the fall - until the end of November.
  • This season is still actively transplanted by young or 3-4 annual spirea. Old bushes can also change the place of landing, but they also have a powerful and voluminous root system, which in composition with soil becomes immense. To dig up the bush for transplantation, be sure to cover the circle around the root by 2 sizes more than the crown projection.

Place and conditions for landing

• This shrub will suffer well heat and frosts to -30 ° C. But the place for its planting should always be well lit by the sun. Whatever region the spirea is planted in.
• And a small recommendation for choosing the neighbors of this decorative bush in landscape design - they should have a well -developed root system. The bush goes well with both stunted and high plants. She “finds a common language” with coniferous rocks, juniper and Tua.
• The day directly for planting the bush must be chosen cloudy, and even better, with the rain. This will create additional conditions to soak the land with moisture.

What soil to choose or how to prepare it?

• We repeat that the spirea will take root, and will grow even in poor soils, but it will not be able to please with its romantic beauty as much as possible. The only thing the Spirea is afraid is the stagnation of moisture, and even in total with heavy soil. This can lead to the death of the plant.
• A great option will be light and loose, sod and leaf sites with neutral or slightly acidic soil. Be sure to add 1 portion of peat and sand to the 2 parts of the sod (or leaf) of the Earth, it is also recommended to add half the part of the clay. This is enough spirea for several years.
• Of course, do not forget about fertilizers. You can use an overheating that will give a whole list of necessary elements for plant growth - potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen. You can also resort to the help of ash, which is used in a diluted state and in dry form. This help Spirea to delight you with delicate flowers in abundant quantities and for a long time.

Take care of the landing pit.

• Its dimensions should be 2-3 times larger than the very root system of the bush. The minimum dimensions are 50*50 cm. The distance between neighboring pits should also be at least 50 cm.
  • Although for spring -flowering bushes the minimum value is slightly higher - 70 cm or 1 m, and with a group landing, the distance reaches 1.5 m. For summer bushes, in this case, 1 m.
• The pit is dug and left for 2-4 days. But it is necessarily filled with abundantly with water or diluted humus. The volume of water and the number of days to impregnate land depending on weather conditions.

Important: before planting in the pit there should not be stagnation of moisture - it is detrimental to the spire. If water is observed after rain or from underground flows, then planting is carried out with a large part of the clay mass. On average, clay is taken 2-3 parts more. And a high level of drainage is necessarily used. Spirea root does not like and in no case should be in water.

Technology and planting process

• The earth should be wet and fertilized. 15-20 cm of broken brick or expanded clay as drainage is poured onto the bottom, and then fall asleep with everything part of the earthen mixture, place the root of the plant and sprinkle completely with earth.

Important: the root neck should be at the same level with the upper layer of the earth.

• Do not compact the earth after planting. Just seal a little. It is better after some time add part of the saturated soil. After watering, it does not hurt to fill the surface of the mulch. Watering after planting is two schemes:
  • Abundant, if the seedling is transplanted with a lump of earth. For one bush it requires at least 20 liters of water, that is, two buckets.
  • One bucket is enough if the bush settled with a bare root system, without earth. In this case, it is previously lowered for a day (or at least 12 hours) into a simulating solution of water. That is, amber or indolexic acid is added to the water, and maybe heteroauxin or other drug, which enhances the growth of the root system.

Important: seedlings treated in the solution are planted already in a permanent place, without further transplantation.

Spirea care: Subtleties and care advice

The plant is unpretentious, but he still loves attention to himself. She needs to provide a good sunny place, rich soil and good drainage even in the process of landing and she will already delight for many years with her flowering. But many gardeners forget about some minor nuances of leaving, simply not seeing them. But it is precisely such small tricks and approaches to Spirea that will retain a plentiful decoration for a long time and long seasons. It happens that the bush blooms again even in the fall, decorating the garden.

• Watering Spirea should be carried out regularly and relatively often due to a shallow root system. For a month, 2-3 times is enough or with a calculation of 1 time in 1.5 weeks.
  • But, for example, the Japanese spirea needs more frequent watering, since it can dry and even wake up from a lack of moisture. One bush requires 2-3 buckets of water, depending on the air temperature.
• To maintain the maximum moisture around the bush itself mulching Peat or husk from seeds, nuts or buckwheat, and also do not forget about sawdust, bark or compost.
• Young bushes need raying From weeds. But be sure to periodically spend looseningsoil to saturate the soil with oxygen.
• AT top dressing The spirea also needs, although it does not require too frequent such procedures. During the season, it is enough to carry out only 2-3 top dressing.
  • The first They are carried out in early spring, after the first pruning. For this procedure, nitrogen -containing fertilizers are used to activate the growth of young shoots. But do not forget that the first top dressing should also contain potassium -length immunity, phosphorus for timely and abundant flowering, and other mineral elements for normal growth. Any universal products or mullein, manure and droppings are suitable.
  • The second top dressing falls in June. Especially, this procedure is important for flying bushes. For these purposes, a mullein solution or superphosphate is suitable. And for the maximum effect they use their composition - 10 g of superphosphate are taken for 10 liters of diluted litter or mullein. These fertilizers also include a whole complex of minerals.
  • Third The feeding is carried out in late August or even in September to prepare the bushes for cold weather. They feed the spire with potassium and phosphorus. An ideal solution is a solution of ash, which replaces potassium and, most importantly, it does not include chlorine content.

Important: for the winter, in no case do not use nitrogen fertilizers. It is this element that is responsible for the growth of young shoots and leaves. Therefore, exclude nitrogen from the third top dressing in front of the cold.

• Young bushes still require shelter for the winter. Also, some varieties or transplanted spirea are “afraid” of frosts, and this procedure will not be superfluous. Use dry moss, leaves of trees or grass, as well as peat and sawdust.

Spiree trimming - It requires separate attention. It is carried out either in early spring or late autumn. Depending on varieties and types.

• Spring varieties They are hidden by the kidneys along the entire length of the shoots, they bloom only next year. Therefore, do not get carried away with intense circumcision. It is enough to remove only frozen, damaged or dried segments.
  • Cutting is carried out once a year, at the very beginning of spring, after the cold of the cold, when the kidneys have not yet ripened. But periodically, the intensive removal of old branches should be engaged. This is done once every 7-10 years and then the bush is cut almost to the stump. Do not worry, the spirea quickly gains strength.
  • Do not get carried away by circumcision of new young shoots! This will cause the growth of side branches to increase. And from this the bush will lose its shape and, most importantly, the beauty and fullness of flowers, which become very weak.

• Summer varieties They are characterized by the fact that at the ends of the shoots, new inflorescences are formed every year, which will already dry out the next season. Therefore, circumcision is also carried out in the spring, but after the start of the leaflets begins. But circumcision is also allowed in the autumn.
  • You need to cut each branch to the first powerful and strong kidney. Young shoots should also not be left, like the old branches that will dry out over time. And remember - the entire bush is removed 1 time in 4 years, leaving only about 30 cm.
  • But sometimes such a procedure becomes not enough. Summer spirees do not stand out durable, therefore they require a complete replacement of the bush every 15-20 years. You need to look at the quantity and quality of flowering.

Spiree propagation: Methods and rules

There are four types of propagation of such a decorative plant. In general, special knowledge or some special skills is not required, since the spirea takes root well.

Seed method

It is considered the easiest, but not permissible with hybrid varieties. Otherwise, varietal signs may be lost. In this way, plants sprout in large quantities and do not require special conditions. Summer seeds are preserved until autumn or even spring landing without special conditions.

• In the spring, the seeds must be planted in April, but in the fall - at the end of the autumn season. For planting, low containers or even plastic cups are suitable. Choose the earth light and loose, mixing it with peat. Seeds sit shallowly - no more than 1 cm in the ground.
• Seeds are treated with phytospirin or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The last remedy is pre-soaked in the seeds for 1-2 hours before planting. This will help prevent the appearance of various diseases.
• The first sprouts appear after 10-14 days. When they will be 2 cm, they are dive. That is, they are planted in individual containers or into large boxes. But young seedlings are transplanted into open ground after 2-3 months.
• The place should be hidden from the scorching sun. The roots are sure to pinch. After planting, they are necessarily covered with a layer of mulch. Water seedlings often, but moderately and regularly.
• Do not forget to loosen the earth and remove weeds in time. Bloat bushes grown from seeds begin after 3 years.

Cherging

• This option is most popular, since with it plants retain all varietal characteristics. Therefore, hybrid bushes are also subjected to this method.
• You need to cut the cuttings only when the intensive growth of shoots ends. For the spring -fluent, this period falls out at the beginning of June. But in summer varieties - at the end of June or early July. But you can do cuttings in the fall, in September.
• Shoots are chosen for cuttings that they grow strictly vertically. They should have at least 4 leaflets, the lower ones are removed.
• Previously, the cuttings are kept in water until 24 hours. If you want to get 100% survival, then you can use any root stimulator.
• The cuttings are inserted into containers with wet river sand, which is mixed with peat. It is not necessary to deepen strongly - 2 cm is enough. The place should be darkened and without drafts.
• They need to be constantly sprayed. For the winter, pots are buried and insulated. In the spring, rooted cuttings are planted in a permanent place.

Growing with layering

• This method is ideal for those bushes that have many young sprouts. In the spring, the lower branches are pressed to the ground and fixed with forks or grooves. Their edges are cut and covered with earth.
• In summer, it is important to ensure that this place is well moistened. In the winter it is carefully wrapped, and the next spring you can already be planted.

Division of the root system of the bush

• This method is suitable only for 3-4 summer plants. Young bushes are still too weak, but the old spirees already have a powerful root. But, but, this method allows separation at any time of the year, except winter. The most favorable period is September.
• The bush is dug and soaked in water for 1 hour. It can be divided by secateurs into 2 or 3 parts. The main thing is that each ladle has several strong shoots and a strong root lobe.

Important: so that the roots take root better and grow faster after planting, they are previously cut.

• Separated bushes are planted in prepared holes and fall asleep with earth. At this stage, the bushes will not prevent the bushes. And the most important requirement for the first time is regular watering, which directly depends on the amount of rain.

The fight against diseases and pests of the spirea

These bushes still delight their gardeners and high immunity. The spirea is rarely attacked by pests and easily tolerates diseases if they happened. It can very rarely suffer from this. Let's see who can “enjoy” with such a romantic beauty.

Pests

• Aphidhe begins to attack the bushes from the beginning of summer to the middle of August. This harm is caused by great harm to the plant, as it sucks all juices from it. And yet, the aphids only in large colonies.
  • To fight it, they use Aktellik, Kronophos or Phazalon. But garlic tincture helps well. To prepare it, only 200-250 g of garlic is required, which is crushed and filled with cold water. Insist liquid at least 2 hours. Also added to more efficiency, several potassium permanganate crystals are added.
• Spider mite It causes significant harm to a large number of generations (up to 8-10 pcs.) In one growing season of the plant. It is characterized by a white raid, which covers the stems and leaves of the bush. Then they turn yellow, dry and fall off. Favorable conditions are a high temperature and lack of moisture. The climax of his attacks falls at the end of July - early August.
  • For the struggle, they take “Fosalon”, “Celtan”, “metaphos” or “phospamide”. Also among folk remedies, the infusion of ash will help. To do this, it is covered with ¼ buckets and poured with cold water. For the greatest effect, another 3-4 tbsp are thrown. grated laundry soap. The liquid is infused for 3 days.
• The least dangerous are considered white wing, leaf -eating leaflet and blue tully sawdust. They also begin to attack Spiria in the summer. For their struggle, “Denis Profi” or “phytoverm” is used. Among folk remedies, laundry and ash are also noted, as well as copper sulfate.

Illnesses to which the spirea is subjected to

• Fungal infections attack garden crops. By the way, often other seedlings become carriers of the disease. The spirea is rarely subjected to it and persistently holds it, but sometimes infection can cause the death of the whole bush.
• For treatment, “Fundazole”, “phytospherin” and “ditan” are used. They note the positive effect of the Bordeaux fluid, copper sulfate and laundry soap.
• But it is better to warn diseases than to treat. This aspect also applies to pests. Therefore, you need to spray bushes for prevention. Any of the above drugs will be suitable for this.

Important: if spraying did not give any result, the bush is dug and burned so as not to infect neighboring plants. This site is treated with copper sulfate and, preferably, left for 2-3 years at rest.

Video: Spirea. TOP of the most interesting varieties. Care and growing