How to crush and sew knitwear on a conventional sewing machine: tips, lines review, sewing subtleties of choosing an inventory, taking into account the type of fabric

In this article, we will give recommendations on how to sew knitwear at home on a regular sewing machine.

Knitwear is an elastic, pleasant fabric from which you can sew beautiful things. If you have an overlock, then the task is greatly simplified. But you can sew knitwear on an ordinary sewing machine. It is just enough to know some features of this material and the secrets of its sewing, which consist in the right choice of additional inventory.

How to sew knitwear: the effect of the type of fabric on the choice of a line

First of all, you should talk about the types of knitwear, which can be made from both natural raw materials and synthetic or mixed threads. After all, it is your fabric that sets the line itself.

The simplest line is straight - Suitable only for a fardrost material and only for straight styles. Line "zigzag" Most suitable for almost all types of knitwear. But it must be correctly configured so that the thread does not loop and does not stretch much.

1. Natural knitwear, produced from cotton - The most comfortable and environmentally friendly. It is much easier to work with it, it is worn longer. Clothing from natural cotton knitwear is not electrified and passes the air well. Its disadvantage is that it does not hold shape quite well, it is breaking when wearing and with time a “rollers” form on it. This is the most inelastic type of knitwear!
2. Natural knitwear made of wool, viscose, flax or silk fibers It has the same properties as cotton. But its sewing at home on a conventional sewing machine is more labor -intensive and requires certain skills. And all because he It stretches well and can pour on the cut.
3. Knitwear made of mixed fibers More stronger than natural, it does not change so much, it holds its shape better and is easier to sew and process. It has average degree of stretching.

The most popular types of knitwear, which is often used for sewing things at home, refers such as:

• jersey- The most popular type of knitwear, the raw materials for which are various, both natural and synthetic fibers. Thanks to their combination and a certain production technology, Jersey can have a diverse structure, various density and used for sewing all kinds of products: outer and sportswear, women's and children's things, underwear. This type of fabric is characterized by incomplete and good preservation of the form, it Little stretches in length,and in the product it looks very elegant;
• svitshot- cotton, wear -resistant type of knitwear of various densities, with a fibrous wrong base and an average degree of stretching. It is used mainly for sewing tracksuits and sweatshirts;
• gum (noodles)- Classic, elastic knitwear of various densities. It stretches well, but thanks to the special structure of alternating facial and wrong loops, because of which it got its name, it holds its shape perfectly, but It stretches well in width.It is made of a variety of natural and synthetic fabrics, used for sewing products with a fitting silhouette: dresses, blouses, “turtlenecks”;
• interlock- Knitted double -sided light fabric that has no face and inside. It is made of cotton, used for sewing tracksuits, t -shirts, pajamas. It has average stretching,but it can vary in different degrees depending on the subspecies;
• stretch knitwear or just stretch - This is a high -tech structure of Spandex. It was he who made the material well stretching in all directions. It may contain fibers of polyester and nylon, as well as cotton. The most difficult look for working on a simple typewriter.

How to sew knitwear correctly: pattern and cutting out material

• Sewing any thing begins with a pattern. When working with knitwear, it should be borne in mind that its different types have different coefficient of extensibility.When publishing patterns on magazines or the Internet, this indicator is usually indicated for each specific fabric. It can also be indicated on the price tag of the material.
• But you can independently conduct a calculation.Try to stretch a piece of fabric in size 10 cm and attach it to the centimeter:
  • if in the most stretched form it reaches 15 cm or morethis suggests that in front of you is a fabric with a high coefficient of elasticity from 50%;
  • about 3-5 cm -knitwear with an average elasticity coefficient of 30-50%, respectively;
  • up to 1-2.5 cm and less -with a low elasticity coefficient of 10-25%.
• This indicator does not have to take into account if you are going to sew a thing of free cut, if you are supposed to sew a tight dress, you should keep in mind. After all The higher the elasticity coefficient, the more narrowed you need to make a pattern.The neck and armhole in this case are also cut out not very deep.

Note: in the thighs, you should still not greatly reduce the pattern. If you want the product not to lift up while walking, then reduce the coefficient only half! It is also worthwhile to understand that knitted fabric does not need to be strokes or extensions on free fit.

• Natural knitwear before cutting is delayed - soaking in warm water and drying in an unfolded form. Cotton knitwear, which gives a significant shrinkage, is better to stretch a couple of times.
• And here Glass for tucksit is better not to wash first!
• If you have a finish based on contrasting colors,then remove the excess dye using a grocery concentrate (1 to 1 is divorced with water).
• Before cutting, knitwear is laid out on dense fabric and It is cut into one layer.You need to do this Strictly in one direction.The interweaving of threads can lead to a change in shape and color in certain areas of the finished product. During the cutting, it is necessary to ensure that the fabric lay evenly and does not move off the table.
• Therefore, a small life - it is better to cut knitwear on a blanketor another dense canvas. You can fix the material to it with pins and not worry that you will stretch it somewhere wrong.

The choice of needles and threads to sew knitwear

The choice of needles and threads is determined for sewing knitted products.

• Preference should be given to needles with rounded ends,having a marking:
  • "Jersey"- for woolen and cotton fabrics,
  • "Stretch"- For synthetic knitwear.
• They are optimally suitable for knitwear, do not pierce the fabric, do not tear it and does not form puffs.
• Wherein We take into account the number:
  • for a thick canvas, he selects a thickness of 90;
  • for thin matter-No. 70-80.

• Double needle the most convenient for sewing knitwear! But you need to be able to work with her, so we train on an additional shred. And beginners sometimes scares sewing with two slices at once. Therefore, we take it into service:
  • each thread goes for its needle. However, they should not be crossed! First, they tucked it in the left ear, then extended the thread to the right needle;
  • the next moment is The direction of each thread “looks” into a different, opposite side. That is, one is counterclockwise, the other for. Thus, they will not be confused in the process of sewing;
  • it happens that it occurs more often on old models, Only one pin. We do not panic - they took any box or even a ship, put it nearby and put a skein of threads in this box from the side of the desired needle;
  • it often happens that The needle does not capture the thread. There are gaps, and you decide that this is a defective needle! Not at all-they weakened the screw with which you change the needles, lowered 0.5-1 mm. They pulled it well and checked the line. Sometimes this tiny step was not enough to pick up the thread.

The threads must correspond to the number of the needle and provide an even line. Too thick threads will tear the fabric at the site of the puncture, too thin can quickly break during the wear of the product. Best suited polyester (polyester) or nylon threads,with a smooth surface. They scored about grandmother's m/b - they are not compatible with a pulling knitwear!

How to sew knitwear correctly: do you need a special foot?

• In fact, if you are a professional seamstress that it works with knitwear every day, then, of course, you need a “walking” foot!
• But with one -time work, you can do it quite a regular paw. But the moment - the details need Smell well with each other So that the canvas does not slip. After all, the lower conveyor scrolls the canvas, and the upper layer of sliding fabric shifts.
• At the same time, we also take into account Type of knitwear. For example, a cotton segment you will pass with a simple paw. But Streich can “get” even on modern machines! Therefore, he needs knitwear. And yes, it’s easier to work with her.

Important: we always adhere to the rule - We sweep in one direction, and we sew in the other! Since in any case, at least a millimeter, but the fibers are displaced. And with the opposite work, this displacement is covered. That is, we begin to sweep on top and go down, and we sew, on the contrary, from the bottom up!

Knitwear sewing process: tips, lines

• Starting work, Try different lines on the fabric segment,at the same time, alternating different needles and threads - so you will select the best option, suitable specifically for your fabric.
  • Sewing knitwear is best with a function "Elastic line" or "Streich",if it is on your typewriter. The names may vary depending on the model.
  • Universal is also suitable "zigzag"with a small width of the stitch up to 1 mm, and a length of 2.5-3 mm. All modern cars have it!
  • If you want to do Double pattern, Then, after the first line, precisely mark 2-3 mm distance for the second line.
  • Not every modern home use machine has it, but it is the lightning pattern knitted lineit is considered the best option.
  • It is better to process the edges with a zigzag or the edge of the suture.By the way, the latter can be sheathed with the bottom, imitating an overlock. Different machines and modes may have its own corner of the spell and inclination.
  • "Spike" parts are better to do dotted zigzag(Rick-lacker), also with a small step of an ordinary zigzag of 4-5 mm and a length of up to 0.7 mm.

• And also try Do not do too weak tension - no more than 3. But one should not fall per unit.
• If you purchase a foot designed specifically for sewing knitted fabrics, then the length of the stitch can be increased to 4.5 mm. With the tension of the thread you will have to “play” - the best option 4. But We always take into account the elasticity of our material!

Important: very often novice craftswomen are faced with a picture of tattered threads on the inside. This is not the upper thread is weakly covered - this is the lower one you pulled! To do this, clean the shuttle of dust and small villi. After that, with a small screwdriver counterclockwise, we only slightly pull the bolt. We adjust under our line!

• Before work, followed t adjust the tension of the threads,having slightly pulled the fabric and checking where they are torn. Ideally, the thread should not break or the rupture should occur immediately in one place - from above and below.

• If the machine begins to pass the stitches, a thin cigarette is placed under the product or wrapping, which is then easily removed.
• The bottom of the product is best treated with a finishing fabric or strip of main material.
• The most difficult thing is to work with knitwear with a high degree of elasticity. For these cases, you can resort to starch of fabric along the course or use of special water -soluble strengthening stabilizers. It is also advisable to use special stabilizers for processing seams that are now available.

Video: How to sew knitwear on a regular typewriter?