Build the camera: why do you need manual settings and how to adjust them?
You have a camera in your hands, and you most likely took your first pictures on it in automatic modes. And if you read this article, then you probably want to learn how to customize the camera manually, in accordance with your wishes and external characteristics.
After all, everyone knows that good pictures can be made in automatic settings, but professionals work in manual settings, because the only way you can create a photo -cost. In this article, we will tell you how to configure the camera, and also consider in detail the camera settings.
Camera settings: detailed analysis
In this section, we will talk about the camera settings, as well as how to configure the camera for several seconds. What should be configured and what can be left automatically.
White balance - curb the color!
If you want to configure the camera - white balance is the first setting with which you can experiment. It is worth noting right away that most photos are taken with automatic white balance settings, since in most cases the device sets the parameters automatically. But it is still better to understand this issue, since in the room, at dusk or at night shooting, the device can issue erroneous data.
The setting of white balance is responsible for adjusting the natural deviation of colors into a bright or opposite the dark side. For example, you take pictures in the early morning and want to capture the warm rays of the sun, with a slight atmospheric yellowness, and convey in the photo all the tenderness and feature of dawn. The camera, most likely “sees” enough light and will set the settings of white in such a way that you will turn out a fresh, cold photo. Of course, you can retire it, but why, if you can immediately set a white balance.
The first rule for all settings: experiment. They set up a setting - make a few frames and check if you like everything? No - put it again. This rule works not only for beginners, but also for experienced photographers.
So, the main options for setting up white balance:
- Daylight - for daylight, well suits from dawn to the first rays at sunset;
- Sunny - for a sunny day, also experiment on dawn and bright sunsets;
- Shady - for cloudy days and shady streets;
- Cloudy - Add tenderness and heat to your photo;
- Customs Manual - User setting, which makes it possible to configure completely manually. This will require white cardboard. Set the settings, take pictures in the light that there will be a white background in the photo, and on the screen the color should be white without impurities. This means that the balance is set correctly.
At the same time, you can “heat”, add “cold” and detachment experimenting over the photo. Try, and you will definitely learn to take the photos that you imagine them.
Harshness - give the pictures of clarity
The overwhelming number of cameras is currently in different ways to automatically set up sharpness, and photographers look into these settings only when there is a desire to add additional “sharpness” and sharpness, or on the contrary, reduce sharpness, smoothing the edges and adding a photo of dramatic, retro effects, retro, retro, retro, retro tenderness and artistry.
Many newcomers are more than confident in order to perfectly configure the sharpness of the camera, it is necessary to put it on the maximum parameter. This is an extremely incorrect misconception, since you will receive an ugly ragged horizon, excessive “grains” in the picture, as well as sharp and not particularly aesthetic transitions of colors.
If you set the sharpness tuning lower than the device offers you, take a few pictures and check small details, as they can be blurred.
So, the initial position of sharpness should never be maximum or minimal. Put in the middle and start to increase/decrease the indicator until you find the perfect indicator for this moment. As soon as you change the location, check whether sharpness is suitable in a new place.
How to configure the focus?
And again about the automatic setting of the camera. Most devices do a great job if you photograph nearby objects, and there are no details between the object and the camera. Indeed, information is laid in the cameras that the nearest object is photographed in the center of the frame, or somewhere not far.
And if you take pictures according to these rules, the object will always be in focus. But if you decide to show at least a slightly artistic free approach and place many details in the frame, then the camera can place accents in its own way, and not as you expect. And if you went to extreme fashion liberties and put the object far, and “look” at it through the window, leaf, bush, etc. then you can’t do without manual settings.
One solution is to put it manually. There are two settings:
- Single Point AF - a focus at a single point;
- Select AF - manual choice of focus.
By going to the Select AF menu, you can independently choose a focus for each frame separately. It takes some time, but the result is definitely worth it. AF point is set using navigation buttons (more in the instructions of your camera) and a trial photo is made, after which you can rearrange the focus again or take a series of pictures on this setting.
The cells have a kind of “Achilles heel” - if there is a yellow spot in the frame, the focus is not installed there. In this case, we recommend that you use the technique of crossing the frame. To do this, bring it to a nearby object, and when the focus tunes down, slightly move the camera so that the focus is on the required object. Now lower the descent button and after the composition is completely ready - click on the descent.
Synchronization of the fosovyshka: how to get a clear picture in motion?
No matter how the technique is forward, with a flash, problematic points are still not automated. If the object is not mobile, and best of all, the device is fixed on a tripod - the flash at the beginning of the exposure (automatic tuning) perfectly illuminates the composition for the picture. But if the camera is in the hands, and the object is also in motion, such a flash gives from blur, to incredibly fantastic effects.
If you need to take a photo of the object in motion using the flash, go to manual settings, setting up the flash and select the Rear Sync menu (synchronization of the flash on the second curtain). In this case, the flash will work at the end of the exposure, and you will receive excellent shots!
Now we will analyze the mechanism so that you have an idea of \u200b\u200ban outbreak and exposition. In the case of automatic tuning, the flash always works with the first curtain, and the frame turns out to be clear and illuminated, when the second curtain is closed, a second frame is applied to it, which turns out to be displaced in case of movement, and not so clear.
In fact, a blurry mowing image is obtained with the feeling that the object is moving in the opposite direction. But if the flash opens on the second curtain, but on top of a slightly greased image, the second, clear and bright, which creates the dynamics and special beauty of the photo is applied.
Reducing noise with a long exposure
Photo with a large level of noise is one of the main problems of beginners, especially if the photo is in the dark or at dusk. The function of lowering noise works in such a way that the camera compares the original image with a black square and subtracts white grains making the final photo more interesting and clear. This works like this, at first the shutter does not open, and the black frame is “read” without light, then the image opens and photographed, after which two images are superimposed and the noise is deducted, and the photographer sees an excellent picture without noise at all or with its minimum amount.
Thus, it will take several times more time to create a frame with a noise reduction function. But the result is worth it!
If you plan to buy a new camera, choose a model with a built -in noise reduction system to reduce the settings time several times.
Large endurance - secrets of clear shots
So, if you take pictures of the object in motion, the exposure should be minimal. If you take pictures in the daytime - short automatic exposure is enough. But the darker on the locations, the more exposure may be required. The gold rule number one - if you work without a tripod, use any surface as a tripod. Not suitable? Put off your elbows into the wall, fence, car and anything to move minimally. Until then, do not even try to increase endurance - there will be no good frame from trembling hands.
Exposure is measured in a fraction of a second. In digital and mirror chambers of the last generation, indicators from 1/4000 to 1/8000 are included. Short exposures are ideal for movement, imprinting the moments, seconds. But the larger the indicator, the longer the endurance. Pay attention to how the overall picture of a photograph of the crane is changing from exposure indicators.
For clarity, we give a diagram in which you can see as aperture, excerpt and ISO affect the quality of the picture.
And in conclusion, we give understandable and simple videos lessons in which they will talk about each setting in details, and also clearly show how to configure each of the functions.
Video: How to set up a camera?
