Autumn trimming of grapes - terms and preparation for pruning, pruning technology on the principle of replacement, a standard and non -test cutting method: tips and photos

In this article, we will consider the timing and methods of trimming grapes in the fall.

In each garden and in every dacha there is an arch of grapes or just a decoration of its juicy clusters. But this imported plant is very capricious and loves a caring and proper attitude towards oneself. To get juicy and tasty grapes, it must be properly careful for it, and the pruning of the vine is especially important, especially before the cold. When and how to properly prepare grapes for wintering and cut it, we will consider in this article.

Autumn trimming of grapes: its goal or why is it needed?

It is worth knowing that this is a mandatory annual procedure! If experienced gardeners without hesitation can give a list of benefits from autumn pruning, then beginners are not always clear the full measure of its importance and responsibility. This will create not only a beautiful decorative formation of the bush, but also provide a good harvest.

• Already touched on the topic of wintering of grapes. And the first reason why should be cut grapes in the fall is protection against frosts. After all, dried and deformed shoots will pull juices from the plant, thereby taking excess power. That is, trimming in the fall enhances natural protection against frosts.
• But also pruning grapes in the fall helps to increase the yield of the bush. The fact is that new kidneys are not formed at the bottom of the bush, and shoots begin to grow on last year’s processes. That is, the bush increases in size, directing all the juices to the formation of the vine. But it is much less directed to the formation of berries.
• In the winter, you need to leave such a ground part as the root itself. Then the circulation of the juice will be able to save stocks to form a future crop, providing the bush itself properly. That is, the vine will be properly saturated with all useful elements, so it will be able to enrich the future crop.

• A strong growth of leaves is also associated with productivity, which will be abundantly shadow grapes and clusters themselves. And this also leads to a decrease in productivity. Pruning in the fall will eliminate unnecessary shoots that will give strength to form new, young sprouts.
• When the autumn pruning occurs, then the kidneys ripen much earlier than the juice begins to circulate. And this again increases the yield of the vine.
• But such a problem as “crying of the vine” is also eliminated. This is a phenomenon when, during the spring pruning, many last year's juice begins to stand out. And he drowses the development of young buds, reducing productivity.
• With harsh winters, it is much easier to wrap the small size of the bush. Therefore, in cold climate, such a procedure is also more than rational.
• And most importantly, the grapes are as well as possible for the benefit of a small part of the vine, and it transfers the “package” of substances to the Grozhes. And the crop comes out larger and juicy. And in the composition with the right top dressing, you can achieve the maximum sweetness of the fruit.

When and at what timelines to trim grapes in the fall?

A little controversial question when to cut the shoots. Each gardener may have its own secrets of vine. And this is normal, because for the time of trimming and even feeding grapes, the climate in which you live directly affects. Naturally, the air temperature is also taken into account at night and day, the variety of plants, its age and even the fertility of the soil.

Remember some rules that will affect the terms of trimming:

• In this matter, haste has been committed. After all, the longer the clusters hang on the vines, the more nutrients the root of the plant absorbs.
• The temperature should not fall below the icon -5 ° C. Otherwise, the vine will lose its flexibility and will become too fragile, and this will lead to damage and even breaks.
• Only we are talking about daytime indicators. If it is not cold enough, that is, there will be no night frosts, then the sapotage will not stop. And in such a situation, one can observe how “crying” in the fall. In other words, you need to catch the gold in the middle in the temperature range.
• A small natural signal that prunes the pruning time is yellowed and even fallen foliage. And the clusters must be cut off.
• But in this aspect, you need to catch a thin line - after harvesting, it should pass for a while (a few days) so that the vine restores and calm down. Remember - cutting grapes immediately after collecting clusters is hard for the bush itself and will negatively affect the future crop.

Now let's figure it out Stages of grape trimming:

• Preliminary and surface pruning of grapes falls on the end of September or on the first days of October. It covers almost all unnecessary, young, short and clumsy, as well as damaged shoots. That is, at this stage, almost all unnecessary and unnecessary is removed.
• If there are still leaves on the vines, then you can help grapes in this matter, making an artificial shaking. You need to bring down extra leaflets, just do it very carefully so as not to damage the bush.

Important: the second stage of trim should be proceeded no earlier than 10-14 days. This segment is needed so that the remaining shoots grow and prepare for the winter period. And it is very important - nutrients should have time to go to the root and to the lower trunks.

• The main pruning is carried out two weeks later from the preliminary procedure and after dropping the foliage (or after the first night frosts). At this stage, almost the entire upper part of the fruit vine is cut off. But do not lose sight of the freezing of some eyes, so leave 30-40% of their estimated amount more.

How to prepare grapes for pruning?

Choosing the right day is a necessary condition. But the criterion for preparing the grape bush itself is also considered important. Although these rules are very simple, many gardeners miss this criterion, not seeing it in an urgent need.

• The weather should choose favorable and not rainy, and the day should be sunny and warm. But it concerns your convenience more. With frozen hands, it will not be possible to properly cut it off, and the quality of cutting is reduced in gloves.
• In September, it should be abundantly and well watered grapes to nourish the roots with moisture. Also, this will help to restore strength for grape after harvesting.
• And in order to preserve moisture in the ground as much as possible, you need to dig it around the area of \u200b\u200bthe grape planting. But near the trunk itself, you just need to gently loosen so as not to damage the roots with a shovel or a crap, which are close near the surface.
• And a very important stage is top dressing and grape fertilizer. This procedure is carried out a little earlier, when the fruits still begin to ripen. This will give strength to the bush itself and will help to get a good harvest.

Important: in order not to get the autumn growth of the vine and leaves, exclude nitrogen from autumn fertilizers. In general, focus on potassium content, since it is this element that gives the plant strength and increases its immunity. By the way, among folk methods, diluted wood ash is an excellent option.

• After harvesting, another top dressing is carried out. It takes a segment between preliminary and the main pruning. During this period, it is also worth excluding nitrogen, using only phosphorus and potassium. Fertilizers and beneficial elements will have time to move to the root of the plant. And this will provide not only a good wintering of the plant, but also a rich future crop.
• Be sure to take care of the inventory. To cut off leaves and grape vine, a sharp coach is used. A very important emphasis falls on the severity of equipment, because the vine should be well and evenly cut off. There should be no burrs, creases or tears.
• For the old vine, wechers or even a garden saw will already be required. Consider the age and condition of the plant.
• Also do not forget about the cleanliness of the equipment. It is advisable to use “scissors” for only one species of plant, so as not to tolerate diseases and pests from some crops to another. After all, do not forget that disputes of some diseases can be preserved even on the inventory, for a long time. Or pre -process them with disinfectants.

Cutting grapes in the fall: Subtleties and features

There is a legend that they began to cut grapes in ancient Greece. Incredibly, but an ordinary donkey pushed people to this. He just decided to eat green leaves of the plant. But, surprisingly, the next year, grapes gave only sweeter and larger harvest. After which it was decided to cut all the green vines of grapes. But do not forget that you need to take into account the varietal feature.

Important: when cutting grapes of any kind, only green and flexible branches can be touched. If the vine already has a brown color and has become solid, then it cannot be pruning. Otherwise, you can break the vine by damaging the bush.

• Thermophilic varieties that have the Central Asian origin, or their hybrids leave as long as possible. The fact is that the first 5-6 eyes do not bear fruit, so after circumcision you need to leave 10-14 eyes. These varieties include:
  • "Aivaz"
  • "Cardinal"
  • Rizamat
  • Memory of Negrl "
• The bushes begin to bear medium stability already on 7-9 kidney, so this number of eyes is quite enough. The most famous species:
  • "Agat Don"
  • "Sasha"
  • "Delight"
  • "Muromets"
  • "Pleven"
  • "Strachensky"
• The most persistent types of grapes begin to grow from 2-4 eyes. This variety includes:
  • "Alden"
  • "Kondryaka"
  • "Arcadia"
  • "Beige"
  • "Zerif"
• Also consider the thickness of the vine itself:
  • if it has a thickness of about 5 mm, then you need to leave 5 eyes after trimming
  • but with an increase by one millimeter, the number of eyes increases to the number 5-6
  • at 7 mm in diameter, leave already 7-8 strong buds
  • but at 8 mm-8-9 kidneys
  • with a value of up to 9 mm of the vine, glazes should remain at least 9, but not more than 11 pieces
  • up to 10 mm-the amount increases to 11-13 eyes
  • at 11 mm of the diameter of the vine, the size of the eyes is 12-14 pcs.
  • at 12 mm-up to 13-15 kidneys
• The weight of the clustard itself also plays a role:
  • when the bunch weighs less than 450-500 g, then it is worth taking the lower limit
  • but with a larger bunch of bunches, you should choose the upper limit of the number of eyes

Some terminology that needs any gardener:

• Stamp -This segment of the vine that comes directly from the ground and only at right angles. It requires only a standard trim method.
• Cordon - This is a strong vine that grows from the stem and is considered a growth point.
• Sleeve - It is also a growth point that appears directly from the ground. In this case, a non -test cutting method is used.
• Fruit vines Appear already on the sleeves and the cordon. But there is some difference - they cover the sleeves from above, but on the cordon they cover the entire escape.

It is worth noting that there are a lot of disputes about the right and better technology. And you can not give an unambiguous answer, there should be a method. There are two types of trimming - besemobe or fan and standard methodology. For the Russian Federation, the first option is more often used, since a severe and cold climate involves hiding grapes for the winter. And with a small volume of vine, it is much easier and faster to work than to cover the high trunk of grapes.

Important: circumcision of the vine in the first year of life is undesirable, since a not yet strong sprout may not survive the winter! This is a slightly relative issue and every gardener decides to cut or leave a young seedling alone. Look at the condition of the bush itself. If it is weak or has not reached 6-7 mm in diameter, then the autumn pruning is postponed next year. Consider the fact that for autumn circumcision, the young seedling must get into the root and build wood. From the first and second years of growth, the circumcision sequence is the same.

Technology for trimming of grapes in the fall: Subissance principle

All shoots of a young vine grow out of last year's branches. If they do not cut them, then the next year there will be a large landscaping and growth of leaves and vines of grapes. But the crop already forces and nutrients will not be enough, so the berries will become small and lose their taste.

• Choosing a deputy. This is the strongest escape that grows near the fruiting arrow.
• A small recommendation to get the most powerful shoots - tilt the arrow a little down and tie it in this position. It is noted that the strongest shoots grow precisely at the place of bend.
• We form a fruit link. It is necessary to cut out the fruit that will give the crop (it shortens on a large number of kidneys-about 8-12 eyes). It depends on the variety and age of the bush.
• Also leave the bitch of replacement, which is a short segment up to 4 kidneys. It is this part that will be used in the future to form the shape of the bush and the vine itself. That is, it is on this branch that the next bitch and fruiting vine for the next year will be selected.

Fan -free methodology or non -test trimming of grapes

Thermophilic varieties need only this method of trimming. After all, he still admits the deflection of the vine to the ground, thereby covering it for the winter. But the most important advantage of this method is the ability to form its own shape of the vine. That is, each gardener can direct it in the right direction and direction.

• In the first year, it is very important to divide the young plant into this method into three parts. To do this, the process in the fall is trimmed so that there are three eyes. This is necessary in order to create insurance to the plant, because some kind of kidney may not open. If all three kidneys opened next year, then the average young vine is pinned.
• The second autumn implies the formation of bitch's knots. To do this, each escape is pinned once again up to 2-3 kidneys.
• And the third year is already a period of sleeves. This is the most important stage, since the future formation of grapes will depend on it. On average, the vine should already have about 1 m of length, and in the diameter there is not less than 6-8 mm. It needs to be cut in the fall by half the size.

Important: with the further formation of the vine, you can make an arbitrary frame, but try to ensure that external shoots are longer. And do not forget to tie the sleeves to the support.

• The fourth year already implies the further formation of the fan. That is, you need to trim all the shoots, leaving only 2-3 pieces of the eyes of the upper layer on each sleeve. Keep in mind that their location should be vertical or close to this position. So that they do not fall and stand stronger, they are also tied to support.
• In the same year, old vines pinch around 7-9 kidneys, but young shoots-2-3 eyes. The final appearance of the bush should already resemble a fan, that is, consist of 4 sleeves and 4 already fruiting vines.
• Each further year, in the fall, new fruiting sprouts and replacing shoots are cut. Try to remove the vines from the inside as much as possible so that the grapes do not grow inside. After all, then the lighting of the bush itself will deteriorate, and the yield will decrease due to excessive density. And in the future this will affect the convenience of the pruning itself.
• Also, do not forget about old knots, they are also called replacing. Periodically, they need to be cut at 2-3 kidneys to carry out the rejuvenation of grapes. A little later we will return to this issue.
• And a small advice - it is better to cover grapes immediately after circumcision. To simplify this task, the fan is connected and buried or bend to the ground. You can cover with a garden film, as well as a spruce spruce or even wrap the trunk with woolen stripes.

The standard cutting method

This method is suitable either for strong grapes, or for a soft southern climate. That is, for the winter the bush can not be covered. Although such a bush is more like a small tree. After all, the lower trunk is relatively highly stretched above the ground. By the way, such a plus prevails in this method as cleaning. The clusters are at the same level and can be directed in the right direction to collect from one plane.

• Also engaged in the formation of vines in the first year. And it is also shortened up to 2 kidneys or still leave one spare.
• But in the spring you need to tie the escape that has survived the winter much better and turned out to be stronger. It is pinned in an upright position to the top. The second escape is taken to the side, like a backup stem.
• In the fall, you need to continue cutting the vine. All shoots are removed except the two of the highest and most powerful. To form them, you need to create the shoulders of the crown. To do this, at the level of their formation, you need to pull a strong wire and attach the shoots to it in different directions.
• Next autumn, shorten one kidney, as a rule, the upper one by two eyes to create bitch of substitutions. But the second escape is cut at the level of 6-7 eyes. This will already be a fruit -bearing vine.
• In the fourth year, fruiting branches are already created. To form them, you need to remove all shoots, but leave strong vines at a distance of 20 cm from each other.

• In the fifth year, you just need to cut all the shoots into 2-3 kidneys.
• But the sixth autumn you need to cut out all the young vines in this summer, leaving only powerful sprouts. And again, shorten one by 2 buds, forming the bitch of replacement, but cut the second shoot into 5-7 kidneys to continue the formation of the fruiting vine.
• Further years support such a wording-from the old vines you create a bitch, cutting into 2-3 eyes, and new fruiting vines are cut out on the old bitch of replacement.

Autumn trimming of grapes: tips

It is worth arming with some more recommendations that will help to correctly form the bush and get the maximum crop.

• You need to cut the vine only at a right angle to apply a minimum of injury at the cut site. Also, do not forget to disinfect garden prisoners.
• 1 cm must be retreated from the kidney, and from the node about 3 cm and only then make a cut.
• It is not recommended to cut the vine of grapes on the same level on both sides. Because of this, the natural circulation of juices inside the bush is complicated and this can cause the death of the seedling. Therefore, exclude symmetry when cutting grapes.
• Before covering, the sprouts must be bent to the ground, on top you can cover with a dense film or tarpaulin. To close the grapes and not let cold winter air, you need to fix it with stones.
• Do not calculate that grapes will bear fruit in a year. To ripen and increase mass, grapes may take about 6 years. Although it also depends on the variety, so some species can already delight gardeners for 3-4 years.
• Do not forget to rejuvenate grapes. Also, depending on the variety, this figure changes, but on average this period covers 20-25 years. Prior to this, only decorative support of the bush is carried out, the correct shape is created and old or sore shoots are removed. Do not forget to form young fruiting vines.

A few words about neglected bushes:

• The restoration of the bush should be carried out gradually, dividing by two years so as not to injure the plant and not create stressful conditions.
• The first thing you need to do with dead and unsuitable vines. In order not to guess about suitable abilities, carry out trial incisions. If a green or light fabric is visible inside, then this indicates a living and healthy sprout. But the dark, gray or even brown color indicates the death of the branch.
• At the next stage, remove all unnecessary shoots, forming the desired shape of the bush. You shorten the remaining sprouts on the required number of kidneys.
• But take into account that the strong and sharp pruning of grapes will also give a powerful growth of the ground part. In order not to violate the balance between the root and the vines of grapes, the shoots lengthen a little. That is, their length should not be less than 10-15 of the kidneys. The size depends on the age of the vine, condition and grape variety.
• The next year, you need to remove all unnecessary and weak shoots, continuing to form the shape of the bush.

How to spend Rooping of grapes:

• This method helps to increase the yield of the bush. It also increases the size and taste of the berries.
• It is necessary to dig a stem to a depth of 15 cm.
• At about a depth of 11-13 cm, several notches are made.
• 10 cm is a place where the vine is drilled.
• The cut place is necessarily treated with any disinfectant and nutrient. A mixture of clay and manure is considered very useful.
• From above, the saws are covered with earth in such a way that the mound forms. This will help to survive the winter and ensure the emergence of new shoots in the spring. When warming, the upper layer of the earth is removed.

Video: grape pruning in the fall