Perennial flowers of dahlias - tubers planting, growing and leaving in open ground, reproduction: time, scheme, depth of dahlia planting on a flowerbed, description. Perennial dahlias - preparation of tubers for landing: separation, processing, germination before landing in the spring

Caring for dahlias is an important issue for many gardeners. That is why this issue will be considered in the article.

One of the most beautiful, bright and long -flowering flowers. This is what a brief description of perennial garden plants - dahlias. Such a flower accrues 42 species and refers to the Astrov family or, as they are also called, complex. Its main advantage is that it blooms from May - July to the very frost. But you need to be able to correctly plant them and take care of them, which will be provided with information in this article.

What does a long -term dahlia look like: photo

In a common or expansion conversation, the name of the flower is attributed to the male family, but in the professional sphere it is associated, on the contrary, with the female class. That is, the end "A" is added.

Interesting facts from history:

• The flower has two roots of origin. More precisely, his name. The Latin version of "Dalia" comes from the name of the Swedish botanist Anders Dahl. But the Russian variation was obtained in honor of the geographer Johann Georgy from St. Petersburg.
• For the first time, this type of flowers was opened in Mexico as early as the 15th century. Then the plant was eaten and helped from many diseases. Its most common use is the treatment of epilepsy.

Biological description:

• The root system. In Georgin, it is represented by root clubs or root cones. While the stem dies every year, the cornclubni can live for several years. Therefore, the plant was assigned the status of a perennial flower. They have a thickened and fleshy structure. They have no eyes that will give shoots. Therefore, the presence of the next part is so important.
• The root neck. This is the transition from tubers to the stems of the plant. In this place, the external part and the appearance of the beginnings of future shoots are dying. Therefore, this is the most important part of the plant.

Important! In the autumn digging, you need to be extremely neat with this part, it cannot be cut or damaged. Otherwise, the plant will simply completely die.

• Stem. They are straight and branched, can be smooth or rough (depending on the species). The thickness ranges from 3 to 6 cm, inside it is hollow. Therefore, heavy inflorescences and intense wind can easily break the plant. The height of the bush depends on the variety:
  • Dwarf dahlias grow only 0.7-1 m in height
  • Medium -sized can reach approximately 1.5 m
  • But tall reaches 2-2.5 m
• Leaves. They are simple and pairing in pairs, a little reminiscent of feathers in shape. That is, they have a periystic type. Sometimes they can even be twice or three times cirrus. Very rarely, whole leaves of plants are found. The length ranges from 10 to 40 cm. Large, slightly lowered, dark green or, less often, red-brown.
• Inflorescences. This is the part of the flower that is difficult to attribute to one form of description. The brushes are in the shape of a basket, the size of which appears in the interval of 3-25 cm. The wrapper of them is a bowl, fused at the base and consisting of 2-3 rows. The flower basket can have a different shape, size and color. The marginal flowers of the linguistic and tubular shapes are quite large. But, depending on the variety, they may differ in the range and configuration.

Variety:

• Simple dahlias. Their peduncles have one line of petals, with a caliber up to 10 cm. The height of the plant reaches 45-60 cm.

• Anemone. There are already several layers of petals, in the middle of which their shape is slightly elongated and tubular. The inflorescence diameter is the same, but the height of the ground part can reach up to 90 cm.

• Chrysanthemum -shaped. The size of the plant is the same as that of anemone dahlia. The petals of the plant have a linguistic form twisted into a tube. Color can be from white to red, including yellow and pink shade. They resemble chrysanthemums.
• Collar. The dimensions of the bush are slightly larger-75-125 cm. The inflorescences have really the shape of a collar. The edge external flowers have a number of petals of the same color. But the core is distinguished by another color with short and twisted petals.

• Pionovid. Inflorescences are slightly larger-12-15 cm, with straight and flat petals along the edges of the flower and with a tubular, inner core. The height of the plant itself is the same as the previous species.
• Decorative. The largest species, since inflorescences can be from 8 to 23 cm, the height also reaches 60 cm.
• Sherrovid. The name speaks for itself - the inflorescences resemble a ball in shape, but sometimes they can be slightly flattened with terry and tubular petals. The dimensions of the flower are 8-15 cm, the ground part is 90-120 cm.

• Pomponal. They have a terry -shaped terry inflorescences, the diameter of which is above 5 cm. A distinctive feature - twisted edge flowers with a blunt and rounded end. The height of the bush is up to 120 cm.

• Cactus dahlias. Inflorescences also have a terry shape, with a diameter of 8-25 cm. The height of the stem reaches 150 cm. The highlighting feature is narrow and pointed, twisted edge flowers.

• Semi -kaktus. The dimensions of the plant are the same as in the cactus version. But the edge petals are slightly curled up from the middle of the core.
  • Nymph. Very similar to water lilies. Inflorescences are terry and correct shape. Their diameter ranges from 7 to 20 cm, the hill of the bush can be up to 135 cm.

Important! There are dahlias even black. Or rather, red-black. The merit of this color is that the plant has a large amount of pigment is Antocyanin. It is it that saturates the plant in red, blue or purple. And its large percentage is created by a black hue.

When to start preparing the roots of perennial dahlias for landing after winter: Planting time

Dahlias are heat -loving plants. They are terribly afraid of drafts. By the way, consider this when choosing a place of landing. It is necessary to get them out of the cellar or other place of storage when the land has already been sufficiently nourished with heat.

Consider your breadth of residence:

• in the southern regions, you need to cook tubers since the end of April
• in a mixed natural zone, this period falls on May for a month
• but in the northern areas - this is the beginning of June

Important! The air temperature should not be lower than 18-20 ° C.

How to take the tubers of dahlias for planting?

There is nothing complicated or supernatural in this process. It is necessary to eliminate dried tubers and remove damaged places by cutting. The main thing is to process the places of "injury". Most often use ordinary green, a weak solution of potassium permanganate or ash. The last material must be carefully rubbed with the necessary place.

• And it is better to place all the tubers in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 min-1 hour.
• Experienced gardeners noted another method - this is a solution of ash. It is necessary to pour ¼ bucket of ash as a cold water and insist for a day. Upper water and operate for disinfection of tubers. You need to place them for 2-3 hours.
• Particular attention is required by those tubers that do not contain growth buds. They are attached to the common center with thin roots. After landing on the flower beds, they rot. Therefore, cut them without regret, this will not cause damage to the bush.

How to properly divide and process the tubers of dahlias for planting?

After small processes appeared, you need to start to divide the roots. Some gardeners carry out such an operation in the fall. But practice indicates that in this case, the damage to planting material increases several times due to decay or drying.

• The root, so -called “maternal nest” must be divided by a sharp knife into separate segments. Each of them should have a root neck and 1-2 growth buds.
• You do not need to leave extra kidneys. Otherwise, planting will give all the juices to the development of excess stems, but on not the creation of inflorescences. Then the flowers will turn out to be small and weak.

Important! If there are a lot of kidneys on one tuber, then it is better to cut the root in half. The main thing is to equally share the root neck. In this case, you will receive the propagation of a dahlia with cuttings.

• Then, the tubers are again determined in pots. Now you need to monitor regular watering. The temperature must be reduced to 15 ° C. After they take root, dahlias can be planted in open ground.
• The watering procedure is best done using a spray gun. Otherwise, the tubers can be rotten.

Is it necessary and what to soak the roots of perennial dahlias before landing?

Yes, dahlias must be soaked 2 hours before landing. The most ordinary water is suitable. This procedure is needed so that the Earth is well saturated with moisture, and the roots are easily extracted from the container. If there are shoots, above 10 cm, or additional sprouts appeared, they need to be carefully broken off. Do not leave more than 3 stems.

Important! Before planting, try to gradually take the plant into fresh air. Start with 10 minutes, gradually increasing the time by 50 minutes. This must be done a few days before planting in open ground.

What is the land for many years of dahlias before landing?

Black earth should begin to fertilize in the fall. To do this, process the site with humus. In the spring, the upper layer must be mixed with compost and gold. To do this, let the rake move.

• Keep in mind that Georgin loves neutral or slightly acidic soil.
  • Alkaline soil can be changed by adding a little peat in the spring.
  • Gashenic lime will help reduce acidity.
• Do not forget that for the normal growth and immunity of any plant, the proper content of potassium and fluorine is necessary. You can use universal fertilizers or resort to the help of folk remedies. For example, a solution of fish flour.
• Follow the nitrogen content! It is necessary for the normal growth of plants, but it should not be too much. Do not get carried away with nitrogen -containing fertilizers.

Important! Follow the crop rotation! You can not plant tubers for the same place for more than 3 years. In the ground there are disputes of fungi and diseases, as well as the remains of rot.

• Also, do not plant dahliage with asters. They are susceptible to the same diseases, so they can transmit them to each other.

How to germinate dahlias for planting: planting dahlias with tubers in spring in pots for germination: Description

After the selection of suitable rhizomes, they are planted in a nourishing place with peat, sand, ash or humus. The soil in the tank must be well moistened. And the roots themselves should protrude 2-4 cm above the ground. The temperature of the soil and air should be in the range of 18-20 ° C. Time takes 2-3 weeks.

• They need to be watered moderately, but when processes of 1-2 cm appear, watering needs to be slightly reduced. So that they do not grow too big.
• The depth of landing should not exceed 20 cm, and the width of the bed itself should be about 40 cm.
• After planting them in holes or pots, tubers are covered with a film. When the sprouts become clearly visible, it can be removed.

Important! A sharp temperature difference cannot be allowed. If the difference is 10 ° C between the storage location and the landing room, then put the tubers for 2-3 days in the room with an intermediate temperature. Gradually increasing it by 2-3 ° C.

When do the dahlias are in the place after landing?

On average, the dahlias move in 2-3 weeks. But this is provided that all the requirements were withstanded. The tubers themselves were correctly selected, and unsuitable - removed. The earth should be well fertilized, and the first time is provided the correct watering. It is especially important that the plant receives enough heat.

Scheme and depth of daily planting on the flowerbed: Description

Proper landing is another important guarantee of healthy growth and long flowering dahlias.

• You need to dig holes that will be three times larger than the tubers themselves. Also note that you need to add 7-10 cm for fertilizers and deepening the root system.
• The distance between the holes directly depends on the Georgin variety. For low-growing plants, it should be 30-50 cm, but in high or giant dahlias-80-90 cm.
• If the soil is very dense, then place a little drain on the bottom of the hole. One blade of gravel or crushed stone is enough.
• It is also laid humus, slightly sand and fertilizers. All this is covered with earth, and then poured well with water. You can also add bone and dolomite flour. A handful of ash will not be superfluous. The whole mixture should occupy half the hole.
• The tubers are placed in the hole so that the eye is directed up. The rhizomes are covered with 2-5 cm with earth.

• By the way, for large bushes, immediately take care of establishing the support.
• Water seedlings should be abundantly and only warm, but not hot, water. When the shoots will grow, and the earth will take it a little more, add the earth gradually. Until the hole is filled to the top.
• Be sure to mulch the soil. To do this, use peat or wood bark.
• When the process appears, it needs to be watered as necessary. Prior to this, watering is carried out a little more often.

What to put in the hole of many years of dahlia, what fertilizers to feed perennial dahlias when landing?

The above was provided some information about this issue. But it is worth noting a small list of popular fertilizers:

• korovy manure
• bird litter
• compost
• ash
• also a small amount of lime
• destroyed peat
• fresh horse manure
• sheet humus

Important! Little litter and mullein must first be insisted. Otherwise, the plant can get a burn or, even worse, die. Nitrogen fertilizers must be taken in small quantities. Otherwise, there will be a large growth of deciduous mass, but Georgin’s flowering can not be wait.

How and how many times to feed the dahlias after planting?

You need to take care of feeding in the fall. Then it is worth applying fertilizers before planting in the soil. When you plant the tubers directly, each fossa is fertilized separately. Then the top dressing of the plants themselves is already beginning.

• The first top dressing should be carried out no earlier than 7-10 days after landing. But the tubers should have time to take root. The safest and most useful are the infusions of the mullein. It is necessary to dilute 1 kg of manure in 10 liters of water.
• You can also use superphosphate and ammonium nitrate. For 10 liters of water, it requires 20 g of substances.
• The ash has proven very well, which first needs to be kept in the water.

• In spring, 3-4 top dressing with an interval of 10-14 days are carried out.
• In summer, potassium and phosphate fertilizers are more necessary. To do this, take 50 g of substances and 3-4 handfuls of ash per 10 liters of water. During the period, no more than 4 such procedures should be carried out.
• The last top dressing is carried out after the end of flowering. To do this, use potassium sulfate with a calculation of 30 g of matter per bush.

How often to water perennial dahlias after planting in open ground?

Plant watering is carried out once every 2 weeks. Especially, follow the condition of the soil in the heat and during the ovary of the buds. If there is a lack of moisture during the ovaries of inflorescences, then the flowers will be small and ugly. Therefore, at this time, watering increases 1.5-2 times. After the start of flowering, watering is reduced and carried out as necessary.

Try to carry out the watering procedure in the evening or early in the morning when the dew was asleep. Also, you can not water water on plant leaves. On hot days, this can cause burns. And excess moisture will lead to rotting of the root.

Propagation of dahlias: Description

There are five ways to propagate a dahlia. One, the most common above was indicated - this is the division of tubers. Therefore, we will miss detailed information, so as not to repeat.

• Division of tubers. It is worth adding only one more important information - such a procedure should be carried out every year. This helps to rejuvenate the plant, and prevents the formation of small flowers.
• Cherging. This above was a little also mentioned. This method increases the ability of dahlia to resist diseases. And it should be noted that the growth of the flower increases significantly.
  • After dividing the tuber in half, it is again planted in the ground. It is important to ensure that the root neck remains open. It is necessary to water constantly so that the soil is always wet.
  • The temperature should be up to 25 ° C. When processes appear, reduce it to 15-17 ° C. At the same time, transfer the box with seedlings to a bright place. If the weather is cloudy, then you need to take care of additional lighting.
  • When the sprouts grow up to 10 cm, they are cut off with a clerical knife. This must be done obliquely, leaving a couple of millimeters at the base. This will allow you to grow several shoots.
  • After that, the cuttings are placed for three weeks in a wet substrate in separate containers. Take care of sufficient warmth and light. During this period, they need to be adapted to the environment, gradually increasing the ventilation time.
  • You need to plant in pots or containers with good drainage (2-3 cm gravel enough) and nutrient soil. Cuttings need to be planted 2-3 cm in the ground, at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other.
  • At first it is necessary to provide abundant watering. It is advisable to use a solution of manure, mullein or litter. After the appearance of the first leaves, the cuttings can be planted in open ground or pots.
• From the seeds. This method makes it possible to get unusual and new specimens. Since the plant retains minimal varietal signs of a mother bush.
  • To do this, cut the inflorescences in the fall and leave them to dry in a dry and well -ventilated room.
  • When the seeds ripen, they are extracted and dried. In March, you can already sow them for seedlings.

• Propagation by vaccination. This method allows you to create very large and beautiful plants, but, unfortunately, it is very painstaking.
  • You need to take a healthy, but inappropriate for planting, a tuber and the required stalk.
  • Rinse the root crop, drain and make a cylindrical hole in it. And the stalk itself needs to be focused below. Then put the stalk into the tuber opening.
  • The junction of the connection must be tightly supplied with a cotton or woolen tourniquet. After that, you can already plant them in the soil.
• Reproduction by sports. This method will help create new seedlings.
  • If you notice an unusual bud on the bush, cut it and cut the side inflorescences from it 10-12 cm long.
  • Then, remove the leaves and take root, as when cutting.
  • They are grown exclusively in pots. Watering must be stopped after flowering. In winter, they need to be stored in a not too bright and cool room. The optimum temperature is 6-8 ° C.
  • In the spring they are placed in a warm and gradually ventilated place. With the onset of heat, they are planted on a flowerbed.

Diseases and pests of tubers, perennial dahlias: description, treatment

There are many diseases that the dahlias are subject to. But all of them are fungal, viral or bactericidal. Diseases and their treatment.

Fungal ailments

• Gray rot. It starts from brown spots on the leaves, gradually staining them in gray. Then the whole plant is covered with this plaque, and it dries.
  • It is not subject to treatment! The outer part is completely cut and burned. The tubers after cleaning are processed by potassium permanganate.
• The spotting of leaves. These are yellow or green spots on the foliage of plants. Its cause is too thick planting seedlings.
  • To cure the plant, you need to tear off damaged leaves, and treat the bush with copper sulfate.
• White rot. She hit the stem, covering it with white fluff. Her disputes are reserved in the soil for 5 years.
  • Plantings break out and burned, and the soil followed to know. The main reason is heavy and acidic soil.
• Fusariosis The root crop of plants fights. They rot and are covered with a pink coating.
  • There is no treatment. The plant is removed, the Earth is treated with Bordeaux liquid. The plant cannot be planted in this place for at least three years.
• Blackleg It affects young seedlings. The name of the disease speaks of symptoms.
  • For treatment, the soil must be treated with photosphere and potassium permanganate.

Viral ailments

Not subject to therapy. Plantings need to be dug and completely incinerated. The Earth is not suitable for three years to plant flowers.

• The viral mosaic is expressed by light spots of irregular shape. Over time, they wrinkle and fade.
• Duboid mosaic is characterized by light green stripes on the leaves.
• Ring spotting-pale green oval spots appear on the leaves.

Bacterial diseases

Also not subject to treatment. The bushes are removed and burned. The soil needs to be treated with copper sulfate and lime. Up to 5 years, plants on the affected soil cannot be planted.

• Cancer is expressed by white growths on the bottom, then they darken and rot.
• Cancer of the growing is expressed in thin roots and shoots, which are observed in large numbers. The tubers cannot develop.

What pests attack the dahlias:

• Aphid More often affects young seedlings. The plant is covered with a sticky coating, gradually yellow and drying out.
  • It is necessary to treat with soap or garlic solution, as well as tincture of onion husk.

• Slugs They love flowers and leaflets of dahlias. To fight them, you need to set baits on the flowerbed in the form of pieces of slate. In the morning, finding them, destroy them.
  • You can also pour eggshell around the seedlings or coarse -grained sand. This will complicate their movement.
• Stocks Eggs are placed on the lower phalanx of the leaves. Caterpillars appear from them, which destroy the plant.
• Trips - These are black miniature beetles that suck plant juice. A characteristic sign of insect attacks is a silver plaque.
• Spider mite It brakes the lower part of the stem and leaves. Over time, they turn yellow and dry out.
  • With such pests, you can and should fight. For this, any appropriate store preparation or tincture of wormwood and celandine is suitable.

The deadlines for digging perennial dahlias in the fall?

You need to dig out tubers after the first frosts. But this must be done and more convenient in dry weather. After that, the tubers are well washed in water from pests and soil residues. All superfluous and dry stems are cut. But you need to leave shoots 15 cm long.

Rules Storage of St. Georgins tubers in winter: Description

Large tubers should be divided into smaller parts. To do this, you need to arm yourself with a sharp knife, which should be previously warmed up on fire. This will be the effect of disinfection. Be careful with indigenous neck - they cannot be damaged.

• After that, the tubers are inspected for the presence of red or yellow spots and other damage. You need to leave only whole and healthy rhizomes.
• The optimum storage temperature is 1-5 ° C. Therefore, an ideal place will be a basement or cellar.
• There are tubers in wooden sawdust. If the room is high humidity, then they are replaced by sand.

Video: dahlias. Storage of dahlias