How to independently dress the skins of a rabbit: step -by -step instructions, tips, reviews

As you know, rabbits are not only valuable fur. But it was precisely about the skin that was primarily discussed in the well -known miniature of a humorous duet - and this is no coincidence, because from rabbit fur sew everything in the world: hats and fur coats, vests and mittens.

Content

If you decide that you can grow rabbits at home and independently make skins received after their slaughter, then you need to start from the very beginning - that is, with the choice of the most optimal “fur” rocks and their proper content.

The main tricks for obtaining good rabbit skins

Choose a breed. Experienced rabbits know that the most “fur” hybrid rocks today are “white giant”, “chinchilla” and “black-brown”. The thing is that they were selected specifically to obtain the highest quality skins.

If you have managed to get rabbits of another breed (for example, quite common “gray giants”), then do not rush to be upset, with proper feeding, well vitaminized, you can get beautiful skins with a dense pile.

Correctly calculate the time of slaughter. The most optimal period for slaughter of rabbit young animals is an 8-9-month age-and it is desirable that this period coincides with the cold season (from the beginning of November to the end of March), when the animals do not melt. Otherwise, the villi will constantly fall from the skin, and it will not last long.

Adult sexually mature individuals are growing to the conditioning mass (from 3 to 5 kg, according to the breed standards), but the skins of the elderly are not made at all due to the low quality of the fur.

Follow the rules of slaughter.Perhaps this will sound slightly bloodthirsty (may the adherents of Greenpis forgive me!), But for quality cashing the skin of the rabbit The method of slaughter of animals directly affects.

To get a beautiful, high -quality skin, it is advisable to kill the rabbit without special physical damage and heavy bleeding.
It is not too suitable and slaughter with an electrician who can damage the villi.
It remains either the use of air embolism, or the only, accurate blow to the head of the rabbit (behind the ears) - if, of course, your hand does not flinch.

How to remove the skin from a rabbit carcass?

If you have successfully overcame the previous points, that is, correctly raised the rabbit of the correct “fur” breed to the air condition and exactly followed the rules of slaughter, then it is time to proceed to the next position - removing the skin from the rabbit.
Of course, for the first time this procedure may seem impossible, but in fact everything is not so difficult, you only need a little patience and experience.
So, to remove the skin, you should not wait for a cadaveric wind, but take up the case immediately after bleeding.
To remove the skin, the carcass is fixed on a special spacer upside down, and then the skin is tightly pulled out like a stocking.

How to remove a rabbit skin from a carcass: step -by -step description

The process of removing a rabbit skin from the carcass can be described step by step in the form of a simple algorithm of actions:

Prepare inventory: sharp knives, a special spacer for hanging the carcass, a dense rope for fixing the carcass on the spacer.
Fix the rabbit carcass On the spacer with a rope head down, tied it by the hind legs.
Cut the tail.
A sharply sharpened knife cut the hind legs Around the jumping joints, and then, forming an arched incision, cut the skin inside the legs and perineum.
Sticking the edges of the skin, start with smooth movements gradually pull it down (like a stocking), slowly tugging it (like a turtleneck collar).
Go around the dangerous areas (genitals, tailbone) with a knife, cutting the skin in the right places and without touching the bladder, intestines. The ligaments connecting the muscles to the skin are also cut off in the same way.
The front paws can either be cut off at all, or repeat the experience with circular incisions (from which we started removing the skin), or manually separate the meat from the skin, sticking the fingers inside the paws and breaking the joints there.
If you need Save the face, then you should put the skin around the eyes, mouth and nose, and remove your ears at all. If the skin from the head is unimportant, then the easiest reach it to the back of the head, And there, separate it with a slic in a circle.

IMPORTANT : The most important thing in the process of removing the skin from a rabbit carcass is to do everything slowly, smoothly, so that it does not break and deform.

How to correctly perform the initial processing of rabbit skin?

Immediately after removing the skin from the rabbit, you should start primary processing, which consists in the scraping of the fat and meat particles remaining on it and the purification of villi from pollution.
If a ignore This stage of processing, then the removed skin will not be stored - the process of decay will begin in it.
To start processing pull the skin on a wooden blank (in the form of a thick timber or deck). To scatter fat and meat particles, take a convenient stupid knife and remove all the excess in circular movements.

Important: if you accidentally damage the skin at this stage of processing, then uncritical cuts and cracks can be sewn with neat stitches.

How to dry the skin before further dressing?

If you are not ready to continue digging the skin of the rabbit Immediately after the primary processing, the skin can be dried.
To do this, the skin is placed on the rule and left in a well -ventilated room without exposure to direct sunlight. Make sure that the air temperature in this room does not exceed 30 degrees S.
As a rule, drying lasts from two to three days - depending on the condition of the skin. As a result, it should become absolutely dry, solid, a little even crispy.

IMPORTANT: The skins cannot be allowed, which is why it can become broken. And excess dampness can cause mold.

How to pull the rabbit skin on the rule?

The rule is most often a wedge-shaped design of wood with a height of 80 cm to 1 m with a width below 27-30 cm and at the top-0.5-0.75 cm. Ideally, it should be sliding, so its width can be adjusted Based on the size of each specific skin.
Pull the rabbit skin on the rule of fur inward, gradually stretching and straightening it So that there are no folds and creases left.
So that the bottom of the skin i did not get and did not move away, It is either nailed with nails or pinned with brackets.

Important: it is very important to show a sense of proportion when pulling the skin - you can not pull (which will lead to rare -hairedness) and do not not fail (the skin can be sharply reduced in size).

How to store primaryly processed rabbit skins?

After primary processing and drying, rabbit skins need wipe - with the help of fabric or wood sawdust, and then pack into bags or boxes, tightly closed and absolutely dry.
For prevention, you should put any a remedy for moth, wrapped in a piece of fabric.
If you intend to continue dressing without a long break, then just straighten the rabbit skin and abundantly fill it with cling salt.

IMPORTANT: Store rabbit skins after primary processing should be no longer than a month.

What is the dressing of a rabbit skin?

Rabbing skins are a comprehensive process that is produced by a person with a fur skin for its further use. It is after the discharge that rabbit skins are sent to the sewing workshop and turn into fur coats and hats we favorite.
It should be noted that dressing - The work is not easy, and its successful implementation requires not only the presence of theoretical knowledge, but also sufficient practical experience.

In general, the processing process can be divided into three consecutive stages:

Preparatory - consisting of soaking the skin, removing of fat layers and mezing from it.
Little - During which the skin is acted through sauing and picketing, tanning and living.
Finishing - The final one is combed, if necessary, they paint, finally dried.

Important: on how qualitatively all these stages will be fulfilled, both the beauty of the resulting fur and its durability will depend.

Rabbit skins

If you still decide to make a rabbit skins yourself at home, then you must first take care of tools and chemical reagents.

So, find in your household or get the following items:

the knife is very sharp
the knife is dumb
drill salt
sliding rule
pine or willow branches or bark
enameled or glass pots and basins (very voluminous)
protective clothes (apron and gloves)
wooden blank of the desired size or countertop

IMPORTANT: Make sure that the room in which you will make a rabbit skin is well ventilated.

How to make a rabbit skin: step -by -step description

Both well-dried and fresh skins should be soaked before making-either in the old fashioned way, spraying small areas with milk and slightly removing the fat layers, or with the use of chemical reagents and warm water.

Let's look at the whole range of measures to dress the skin of a rabbit step by step:

Survival (scope).

Performed for sittering Skins, giving it elasticity, and also helps to fight microbes if chemical reagents have been used.
The skins, which were pre -dried, are soaked in an antiseptic for at least 12 hours, and fresh and 5 hours even in clean warm water.
In order for the prepared solution to cover the skins a few centimeters, you should correctly calculate its number, approximately 3 liters for every kilogram of skins.
Solution recipe: For 3 liters of water should take 150 g of food sodium sodium (or 6 g of sodium bisulfite and zinc chloride) and 2 g of formalin. Another option for the recipe: for the same amount of water and salt, 6 g of carbolic acid crystals and 90 g of drill should be taken.
Having leveled and crushed the skins with a oppression, they are left in the solution for 30 minutes, after which the sinker is removed.
To learn about the complete softening of the skins and their readiness for further processing is easy - they begin "Freely soar" in the water. So, the time has come to get rid of the residual fat layer, lightly squeeze the skins and pour the used solution, and rinse the skins with clean running water and leave them to drain.

IMPORTANT: If the oxide lasts more than 12 hours, then the solution needs to be interfered and even changed.

Removing Mazra - Mezda.

Using a piece of soft, natural fabric, remove excessive moisture from a rabbit skin and pull it on a previously prepared blank (or simply put it on the desktop).
Before the mezta, remove the film and the remainder of muscle and adipose tissues from the skin, and then, with the help of a dumb knife, slowly (scraping to the center to the head from the back and on the sides - to the belly from the back), begin to clean the surface layer of the mezra.
Be careful, do not add great strength, so as not to accidentally cut the skin!
After processing, slightly stand with a knife with a knife with a knife - make the so -called “breakdown”.

IMPORTANT: A dumb knife with a mezing can be replaced with a brush for metal work, or a special device equipped with electro- and magnetic drives- now it is easy to find them on sale.

Washing skins - degreasing.

To deeply clean the prepared skin and degrease it, wash it using shampoo, toilet soap, or (in extreme cases!) Washing powder.
For washing, prepare a soap solution: 25 g of shampoo/soap or up to two kilograms of powder, dissolve the powder in warm (not hot!) Water and soak the skins for 10 minutes, then rinse with running water and wipe dry.

Important: it is strictly forbidden to leave the remains of a soap solution on a rabbit skin, otherwise you cannot work effectively with it.

Pickling or picketing.

Both processes are carried out so that the skins are very strong and high -quality. And who is more convenient - every master chooses himself.
To carry out pickling Prepare a jelly from 1 l of boiling water, 200 g flour (oatmeal or rye), 3 tbsp. l. Drill soda, 0.5 kg of soda calcified and 7 g of dry yeast.
Having cooled the jelly to a warm state, place the skins (fur inside) in it for two days. The readiness to be easily noticed in a white shade of Mazra and a characteristic “bread” smell. At the end, rinse the skins and leave them to drain.
For picketing, an acid solution is prepared, in which 12 ml of 70%vinegar and 5 tablespoons of table salt are used for each liter of warm water. It also hold skins for two days, and then, according to readiness, immersed for half an hour in soda solution (for each liter of water - one and a half kilograms of food soda soda), washed with running water and thoroughly wiped with cloth.

IMPORTANT: In order to correctly calculate the right amount of solution for both picketing and pickling, prepare 3 liters for each kilogram of skins.

Chrome or tannid tanning.

This process helps rabbit skin to become resistant to moisture, wear and deformation With further use.
Chrome tucching consists in the addition of 7 g of chrome alum for each liter of boiling water - in such a solution, keep the skins for a day.
Tannidal tanning involves the use of 50 g of a decoction of oak or willow bark (half an hour of boiling branches or bark over low fire) for each liter of water - in such a solution, rabbit skins are kept from one day to four (according to readiness).
After soaking in a chrome or tannate solution, the skins are laid in a soda solution (for each liter of water - one and a half kilograms of baking calcified soda), after which they are washed with running water and squeezed lightly.
The final chord: leveling and being under the press for two days, folding skins on each other (fur to fur).

IMPORTANT: To verify whether tanning was successfully performed, carefully examine your skins with a magnifying glass, which ideally should become yellowish, with a velvet texture.

Fat processing and drying.

Fat treatment or fat is needed in order to the rabbit skin gathered, was waterproof and elastic. The procedure is carried out using fish oil, glycerol or castor oil, which are applied to the skin of a cotton swarm.
A grated skin is impregnated for two hours, then wiped with a piece of clean fabric.
After the fat, the skin is mandatory without fail-either on the rule or on the desktop in a well-ventilated room or in the fresh air (but necessarily in the shade!) Without the use of any heaters.

Final processing and storage.

After the final drying, lightly open the skin and stretch a little with your hands. It is recommended to rub the skin with chalk or tooth powder with subsequent grinding with fine sandpaper.
Shake the rest of the chalk and comb the fur with a soft massage comb.
If you correctly completed all of the above stages, then the sophisticated rabbit skins can be stored for a long time - in bags of natural fabrics (cotton or linen).