How and when to process tomatoes from late blight in the greenhouse and open soil for the prevention and fight against the phytoftora on tomatoes - the best drugs and folk remedies: terms, list, recipes, advice. Can I use it, preserve tomatoes affected by late blight?

In this article, we will consider methods for treating tomato from late blight.

Content

Tomatoes love almost everything, and in raw form, as a conservation. Who has their own garden or greenhouse, then such a vegetable treat must be on the site. And, unfortunately, every gardener at least once faced a disease such as a late blight. By the way, this disease affects mainly a family of nightshade plants, and tomatoes most often. What methods to undertake not only to treat the crop, but also for its prevention, we will consider in detail below.

What is a phytopher on tomatoes, what does it look like, what are the first signs, where does it come from, for what reason does it appear in the greenhouse and open ground?

We will immediately figure out the disease itself. The phytopher refers to the genus of the mushroom -like wipers, which cause blackening of the fruits of plants and their stems. They cause such a disease as late blight. More than 100 species are known, but there are still many other forms, the number of which ranges from 100 to 500 varieties.

Important: only 20 species are found in Russia. And the most dangerous is the Mexican phytopher - pH. Infestans. It is she who often occurs in the garden area and affects not only tomatoes, but also potatoes and eggplants.

What is the cause of the disease ::

If we talk about the location, then disputes can be everywhere - in soil, air or on seeds. Moreover, they can be found on the walls of the greenhouse themselves and on a garden inventory.
The most favorable conditions are an abundance of moisture and a lack of heat or sharp temperature changes. The months of July and August are considered the most dangerous, since the temperature drops at night, during the day, naturally, it rises significantly along the plus scale. And this entails the appearance of dew.
But her poor evaporation is another reason that is facilitated by a thick landing of the bushes. Moisture simply does not have time to completely evaporate, so he sits on the stems or leaves.
The phytophthor likes to appear on potatoes most of all, so tomatoes planted too close near the potato tubers are more likely to fall into the risk zone. But it is also not advisable to plant tomatoes with pepper or eggplant.

In greenhouses, such a disease is less common, but the scale of the disease covers almost immediately the entire crop. The next reason is more characteristic precisely for greenhouses in which air stagnation can occur. The lack of ventilation and poor air circulation will be the spread of the disease.
Moreover, disputes perfectly tolerate low temperatures. Therefore, they are often preserved on potatoes, where they winter. Yes, they are in a sleeping state, but in the spring they can start attacking young shoots or fruits.

Important: moisture is the most important indicator for late blight. If there is sunny weather, even with temperature fluctuations, then disputes will die. But with frequent or prolonged rains, if the temperature becomes higher than the icon of +10 ° C, the late blight begins to actively act.

The soil poor on microelements, as well as an abundance of nitrogen concentration, will also contribute to the development of the disease. Especially, it is necessary to monitor the concentration in the soil of iodine, copper, potassium and manganese.
Lack of sunlight. This can be caused by cloudy weather, and, again, with a thick planting of the bushes.
- By the way! Do not water tomatoes too often and abundantly. Moisture must have time to absorb and evaporate.

The first signs of phytofores:

Phytopher or late blight resembles the most ordinary rot. Which is quite reasonable, because its development serves mainly moisture. Therefore, often in colloquial speech you can find such a name as rotten a tomato.

The leaves of the plant are the first to suffer. They will serve as the first signal of the disease. Therefore, it is so important to carefully examine the thick bushes of tomatoes. If you see black spots on the leaves, they should be immediately torn off. Moreover, so that there is no stagnation of moisture, the bushes themselves need to be slightly thinned out.
An important difference between dark spots on the leaves - they are covered with white or light oily rain after rain. By the way, spots can have absolutely different shape and size. Ultimately, the leaves are drilling, completely drying out and disappear.
If the disease began to attack the young shoots of plants, on which fruits did not manage to form, then inflorescences suffer. At first they are actively yellowing, then blacken and also disappear.

Then the turn reaches the fruits. The spots appear in the lower part of the tomato. After all, it is there that all moisture is concentrated. The situation is also aggravated if the fruits relate to the ground. First, small subcutaneous spots of black or brown appear. By the way, the hard fruit softens very quickly and an unpleasant odor begins to come from it.

Important: the incubation period of the disease lasts from 3 days to 2 weeks. Therefore, the plant can die in just a few days. Moreover, the phytopher at lightning speed captures other plants that are nearby. Therefore, the insidiousness of such an ailment is that the whole crop can be abused.

In the end, the stem itself suffers. In the same way, dark spots of irregular shape appear. If high humidity is observed, then a peculiar white plaque will appear.

Phytopher on tomatoes - prophylaxis prevention: how to do it?

It is better to warn any diseases than to treat. By the way, you need to proceed with preventive methods at the very beginning, when you are only going to transplant seedlings in open ground or greenhouse.

The main task is:

naturally, in the fight against future possible disputes of the disease
in increasing plant immunity, which in turn will help to resist tomatoes against other infections and fungi
and also, this will help get a greater crop. By the way, the tomatoes themselves will be larger

Important: prevention does not give a 100% guarantee that tomatoes will not be picked up with a late blight. Since, it is necessary to take care of the soil itself, and about garden equipment, and follow the crop in the future.

Preventive measures:

The very first thing that needs to be done in the prevention of seedlings is to correctly fertilize the soil. Take care of the necessary content of phosphorus and potassium, since it is they who give the necessary power to the tomatoes to resist diseases. To do this, you need to feed the ground with the necessary fertilizers.
The high nitrogen content can cause the disease and this has already been mentioned above. Therefore, follow its concentration in the ground.
After planting in pots (cups) and before planting in open ground, process seedlings with 1% - with a solution of burgundy fluid. To prepare it, you will need:
- 100 g of copper sulfate
- 120 g of lime
- 1 liter of hot water
All bulk ingredients must be diluted in separate liquids (that is, take 0.5 liters of water).

Important: Do not use metal containers! You can take glass or plastic as a basis.

The main thing is to add 4.5 liters of cold water, so that in the end it turns out 5 liters of solutions
After that, you need to strain lime milk
And then add diluted copper sulfate to it
Seedlings need to simply spray with this liquid
But keep in mind that the Bordeaux liquid is stored no more than a day. And another important nuance - do not dilute the finished mixture with water!

I would also like to mention such preventive measures as processing of seeds. Yes, they also need proper preparation.

It is necessary to pour warm water into the container, with a temperature of 60 ° C.
Place the seeds in it for 2 hours.
During this time, add hot water so that the temperature does not start below 50 ° C.

Important: the phytopher dies at a temperature of at least 50 ° C, but above 60 ° C the emergency embryos themselves will die. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the correct temperature regime.

When for the first time, how many times and how to process tomatoes from late blight in the greenhouse and open ground for the sake of prevention: the timing, list of drugs and folk remedies for greenhouses and open ground

To begin with, we will provide a list that applies to greenhouses and open ground. These are small, but important rules of preventive measures:

Be sure to process seeds and seedlings! This is the first step to a healthy harvest.
The soil, before planting seedlings, must be prepared. That is, make the necessary trace elements.
If you plant tomatoes in open ground, then keep in mind that tomatoes need to be planted elsewhere. And not where the potatoes grew up. And remember, repeatedly on one section can be planted only after 4 years!
If you breed the crop in the greenhouse, then change the soil completely (this is ideal). And be sure to process the greenhouse itself with phytosporin or Baikal-M.
Plant the seedlings not too close. Keep in mind that the bushes will grow in the future, and they should have enough light and air.
You can water tomatoes only under the root! And only in the morning, so that the moisture does not stagnate with a cool night. In no case do not water the leaves! They must remain dry.
If the bushes bend too low, tie them and break off the leaves that lie on the ground.
Follow weeds. That is, remove them during them and immediately take them to another place. No need to put in compost and tomato tops.

Prevention of the tomato themselves:

It only needs to be carried out on those plants on which tomatoes have not yet ripened.

Such a procedure should be carried out in the morning, when dew has already slept, but there is still no scorching sun. Since, otherwise, the plant can receive a burn. Or carry out the procedure late in the evening, but the site should be well ventilated.
The frequency depends on the rains in the literal sense. If the summer is dry, then only 3-5 prevention is enough for the entire period. If the summer came out rainy, then it is necessary to carry out prevention every 10 days. Naturally, it all depends on the chosen drug. Some manufacturers do not recommend too carried away, and repeated spraying is carried out at least 14 days.
"Photospirin" It is first in the list and can only be used 2 weeks after processing. It is also indispensable when planting seedlings. You can not just spray the bushes, but water the bush itself well from all sides.
"Trikhodermin" It is used as a prevention directly during the planting process, you need to water the holes with this solution. It must be diluted in proportion - 5 ml (or 5 g) per 5 l of water.
Borodsk mixture Useful for the prevention and adult bushes of tomatoes. It can be used more often-1 time in 10-12 days.
It is also worth highlighting such drugs as “Bravo”, “Ditan”, “Quadris”, “Trikhopol” and “Tiovit”, as well as “Ridomil Gold”, “Previkur” and “Horus”. But they can only be used before flowering tomatoes and no more than once every two weeks.

Important: any chemical drugs, although effective in the fight against late blight, is undesirable to use them after the ovary of the fruits. Like it or not, then the whole set of chemicals will get to your table. If possible, try to resort to them only in extreme cases. And only two weeks before harvesting.

Folk remedies can be used every week. The most common is considered garlic! You need to grind 250 g of garlic, add potassium permanganate on the tip of the knife. All this must be laid on the bottom of the bucket and pour completely warm water. Insist a day, after which you can spray or water tomatoes. By the way, such a liquid can be used from the first day of planting and even after the appearance of fruits.
It also helps very well temptor (birch or real). It must be chopped and poured with boiling water (100 g of mushroom is required for 1 liter). You do not need to insist, just wait for a complete cooling of the solution, after which you can periodically water your tomatoes.
Also do not forget about such an affordable tool as ash. It is necessary to fill the bucket on ¼ ash and pour it with warm water. But to infuse such a mixture for at least three days. You do not need to filter, but do not forget to add another 2 tbsp. L of grated laundry soap.

If only one or two plants were affected, then without regret you need to tear them out and immediately burn them so that the epidemic does not occur. If the phytopher hit many bushes, then it is worth using drugs such as boric acid, “phytosporin” or “gamaire”. Also do not forget about folk methods. You need to process bushes every 5-8 days.

Important: garlic can be planted next to tomatoes or between rows. Even a few heads, but it will help save the crop.

How to use a trichopoline to combat late blight: recipes for use

Trichopol helps to fight already with the emergency phytoftora (although it will not be superfluous for prevention).

The main dosage is 10 liters of water and packaging of tablets (20 pcs.). By the way, it is preliminary to dissolve them in a small amount of warm water, and then add the remaining liquid.

On a note! Some gardeners use still iodine or green, as an additional element. Only then it is enough to take only 15 units of Trichopolis and a bubble of iodine (Zelenki) for 10 liters of water.

How to use copper wire to combat late blight: recipes for use

This method was used by our grandparents. By the way, it not only helps in the prevention or fight against late blight, but also enriches tomatoes with useful elements.

For prevention, you need to insert a piece of copper wire next to the seedling of a tomato directly into the ground.
For treatment, it is necessary to pierce the stem of the plant next to the affected place. Do not worry, this will not affect the growth and fruits of tomatoes.
Just keep in mind that the wire must first be rubbed with sandpaper to remove the protective layer of varnish. After all, he makes the wire useless in the treatment of the disease.

How to use milk to combat late blight: recipes for use

For such purposes, it is better to use slightly sour milk. To do this, put it in a warm place at least at night. But fresh homemade milk will also cope with its task.

For prevention and for the first time, 500 ml of milk is enough
2 ml of iodine (measure it with a syringe)
10 liters of water

Water should be warm or room temperature, milk is poured first, and then iodine is added. It is necessary not only to water the plant, but also to spray its leaves. Approximate expense - 1 liter of solution per 2 bushes.
But for treatment, you need to take the same proportion, but 1 liter of milk. And the fluid consumption is reduced twice. That is, 1 liter per 1 bush.

How to use iodine to combat late blight: recipes for use

The easiest way is to arrange small plates (jars or lids) with iodine throughout the crop. Or dilute iodine bubble in 10 liters of water. By the way, such a solution is stored for a very long time.

A solution of iodine with milk or serum also helps well (for 10 liters of water will require 1 liter of milk mixture and 2 tbsp iodine). By the way, the addition of 1 tbsp. hydrogen peroxide.
You can also mix 30 drops of iodine with a bag of boric acid. True, it must first be diluted in warm water. Dosage is also 10 liters of water.

How to use the drug HOM to combat late blight: recipes for use

There is only one scheme for using this drug - 40 g per 10 liters. That is, a bag of 20 g must be diluted in 5 liters of water
You need to spray the whole plant, paying special attention to the lower part of the plant

By the way, it is important, you can use tomatoes five days after processing

How to apply copper sulfate to combat late blight: recipes for use

If you use copper sulfate for prevention, then 10 g are enough, but for treatment you need to take 20 g of the drug
The substance is designed for 10 liters of water. You can spray with such a solution only 4 times per season
By the way, the last processing should be at least 3 weeks before harvesting

How to use yeast to combat late blight: recipes for use

You can use both dry and fresh yeast. An important condition is warm water, the temperature of which is not higher than 40 ° C. The optimum temperature is 35-38 ° C to activate the yeast, but not lead to their death.

If you use dry yeast, then dilute in 3 liters of water 1 bag of yeast, adding 5 tbsp. Sahara. Gradually, as it cools, increasing the volume of fluid to 6-7 liters.
If you use fresh yeast, then you need to dilute 100 g into 10 liters of warm water. By the way, you can also add 5-8 drops of iodine.

How to use furatsilin to combat late blight: recipes for use

Furatsilin should be diluted in this ratio of 1: 1 - 10 tablets per 10 liters of water. By the way, take into account the fact that the tablets dissolve only in hot, almost boiling fluid.
And you can water such a solution before the ovaries of green tomatoes.

The fight against late blight using furatsilin

How to use salt to combat late blight: recipes for use

The folk method of struggle, which can be used even with ripe tomatoes is a salt solution
To prepare it, only 100 g of salt and 1 liter of water will be required. Come on, consider your crop area

How to use kefir to combat late blight: recipes for use

Kefir, milk or serum can replace each other. But in pure form they are not used, as a rule, a dairy product is diluted in 10 liters of water. With the calculation of 1 liter of milk fluid.

You can also add 2 tbsp. chopped garlic, with the same proportion. But you need to insist at least 2-3 hours.
Or take another component such as Coca-Cola. No more than 1 cup.
If desired, you can add a couple of drops of iodine.

How to use serum from milk to combat late blight: recipes for use

Serum can be used even in its pure form, or by diluting it 1 liter of water (that is, using the ratio of 1: 1)

For prevention, you can increase the dose to 8 liters of water. By the way, you can also add a few drops of iodine

How to use hydrogen peroxide to combat late blight: recipes for use

To combat late blight, both for prevention and treatment, 1 tbsp is enough. peroxide to a 10-liter bucket
You can also add a few drops of iodine. Tomatoes can be watered and sprayed with this liquid

How to use soda to combat late blight: recipes for use

Such a safe substance as soda (approximately 5 tbsp) is also diluted in 10 liters of water
You can safely water your crop every 5 days in the rainy season
And so that soda protection is delayed longer on tomato leaves, add 1 tsp to the solution. liquid soap

How to use garlic to combat late blight: recipes for use

We have already indicated the recipe with garlic above. But we want to offer one more - more advanced. In this case, a little more ingredients will be required:

200 g of garlic
1 tbsp. mustard
and the same number of bitter ground pepper

Mix all the components, pour 2 liters of water and leave to infuse for a day.
Then, strain the solution and dilute up to 10 liters.

How to apply potassium permanganate to combat late blight: recipes for use

Consults can be processed not only of tomato bushes, but also their seeds. To do this, they need to be kept for 12 hours in a pale pink solution. Then it is necessary to rinse and then plant in the ground. Also, it can be watered with a light solution of potassium permanganate of the hole in which you plant seedlings.

For prevention, dilute the potassium permanganate to light raspberry color. Such liquid can be sprayed and watered with tomatoes. By the way, it is better to carry out the procedure in the evening.
For prevention purposes, process the bushes at the beginning and at the end of June.

How to make and use a slobber for tomato from late blight?

Salunavchik is made very simply from improvised means. The main task is to protect the leaves and fruits from moisture. In other words, water should receive water, not a disease.

Take a plastic bottle and cut the bottom
Make a few holes throughout the circle, somewhere after 2-3 cm from each other
Near the bush you make a small recess and insert the bottle with a neck down
Water or, for example, garlic solution should be poured only into the bottle
Then cover the hole with a lid

What to do with tomatoes affected by late blight, is it possible and how to save them after damage in the garden and ripped off?

Remove infected tomatoes, since blackened tomatoes yourself will be unpleasant to eat them
Process the remaining non -infected fruits. Here they can be eaten and canned

Can I use it, preserve tomatoes affected by late blight?

Of course it is possible, if the disease did not have time to get to them. That is, the bush itself suffered, and you managed to tear the tomatoes, albeit unripe (or even green). You can make wonderful salads or just marry green tomatoes. Just do not cut blackened fruits! Such a tomato is no longer suitable for conservation.

How to treat the Earth after phytofores of tomato in the autumn in a greenhouse and open ground?

The most important thing is to make a deep digging of the soil. Also, all the tops must be removed and burned. But such a measure will not give a 100% guarantee that disputes have died.

Therefore, you can process the plot with any of the above prophylaxis, for example, a weak solution of potassium permanganate
Or just pour boiling water
For greenhouses it is better to bring new soil

Tomatoes resistant to late) for open ground: List and names of varieties

Immediately, we note that certain varieties cannot completely withstand diseases. Preventive measures will need to be taken in any case, especially if you need weather or soil itself.

The most famous varieties: